Herbs and Fish
By Bob Brantly
Seafood without fresh herbs is like drinking fine wine out of your coffee cup.
I’m excited that spring is here because more fresh seafood is available. It also means that more fresh herbs are just around the corner. What better way to enhance fish than with a healthy, aromatic process?
Chef Bob Brantly
I'd like to give you a little history about some of the herbs we cook with and sometimes take for granted.
Dill is a native of Europe and Asia. It was used as a good luck symbol and as a charm against witches. The Norse word “dilla” means to lull, which is a reference to its calming quality. Salmon and gravlax are most frequently associated with dill.
Cilantro and coriander go back to archeologists discovering coriander seeds in Egyptian tombs. Described as a cross between lemon-sage-caraway, it is used in Mexican, Turkish, Indian, and Asian cuisine and is great with seviches, marinades, salsas and stir-fry. Scallops, shrimp, tuna, and most fish go with this herb.
Parsley was used medicinally by Greeks and Romans. It's associated with the God Hercules and was said to bring stamina to both men and horses. Parsley wreaths adorned winning athletes and heroes’ graves. The Romans used it (and some cooks still do) to disguise the scent of alcohol on their breath. Parsley and butter together with white wine are awesome on any lean white fish.
Thyme was grown in the ancient gardens of Babylon. From the Greek word Thuo or “to perfume,” it was used as an antiseptic to ward off the plague and was burned asincense in Greek temples.
Thyme Garden
Charlemagne decreed all herb gardens in his kingdom must have thyme in them. Almost any seafood goes well with this most versatile herb, and lemon thyme is my favorite.
Rosemary goes well with heartier fish such as tuna, wahoo and swordfish. It was used in times past to ward off evil and in wedding garlands to represent fidelity. Ancient Greeks wore rosemary during exams to focus their minds and sharpen their memory.
Sage is native to the Mediterranean coast and is associated with wisdom, longevity and immortality. It comes from the Latin word “saliva” for salvation. Romans used it to aid in digestion and as a tonic for colds and sore throats. In the 1600s the Chinese so revered sage they would trade the Dutch four chests of tea for one of sage.
Pineapple sage is my favorite. It goes well in salsas on fish.
Here are some more ways to incorporate herbs into your seafood.
Use herb stems as skewers when grilling or barbecuing.
Use rosemary, sage or bay with shrimp, scallops or other firm fish.
Use herb sprigs on coals while grilling fish.
Chop up fresh herbs and roll your fish in them before roasting or sautéing.
Make herbal pestos to top fish, and not just with basil; try mint, dill, tarragon or thyme. Put herbs into your breading when cooking seafood, or use herbs in marinades before grilling.
Store basil at 44-50 degrees and other herbs at 34-36 degrees in a resealable bag in the fridge.
It’s best to add tender herbs at the end of the cooking process, and add hardier herbs such as rosemary, sage, and thyme at the beginning.
Bob Brantly is an American Culinary Federation Certified Executive Chef who resides with his family in Raleigh, N.C., where he is executive chef at the Raleigh Country Club.
Lemon-basil Beurre Blanc
This classic white wine butter sauce emulsion is a simple herbed sauce for any lean white fish.
Ingredients: (Yields 1 1/2 (one and one-half) pints)
2 ounces minced shallots
1 ounce champagne vinegar
1 1/2 (one and one-half) ounces fresh lemon juice
12 ounces dry white wine
1 bay leaf
2 ounces heavy cream
1 1/2 (one and one-half) pounds cold unsalted butter cut into small cubes
1 1/2 (one and one-half) ounces chopped basil
Preparation:
Combine shallots, vinegar, lemon juice, white wine, and bay leaf. Reduce in a non-reactive pan to 2 ounces Strain. Add heavy cream and reduce by 2/3 (two-thirds).
Add butter 1 cube at a time over low heat till all is emulsified. Add basil.
Large Basil
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